In the heart of Kano, the single largest textile market in Africa, Kwari Market, has been fighting for survival. As the early-morning sun illuminates the skies, the market comes alive with the rustle of fabrics, movement of bales, and rising voices of bargaining. The market's colourful textiles – laces, shadda, Ankara, chiffon, veils, caps, and imported fabrics – fill every space.
Traders call out to customers in Hausa, reflecting a marketplace shaped by decades of cross-border commerce. Kano State has long stood as one of West Africa's most important commercial hubs, historically positioned at the centre of trans-Saharan trade routes and today serving as Northern Nigeria's economic engine for manufacturing, trade, and distribution.
At the heart of this ecosystem is Kwari Market, which has been a staple of Kano's economy for over 42 years. Chairman of the Kwari Market Houses, Plazas and Shops Association, Ishaq Alkassam, also known as Balarabe Tatari, described the market's history, saying it was originally a highbrow residential area in Kano, comparable to modern GRA districts such as Nassarawa and Dala.
"It was a residential area where people lived like any other developed part of the ancient city," he said. Because Kano has long been a commercial centre, foreign settlers, including Lebanese, Pakistani, Indian, and other West African traders, settled in the area and engaged in trade.
Today, the market has about 275 plazas and over 13,000 shops, though the numbers continue to change as more residential buildings are converted into commercial spaces. Despite recent government involvement three years ago, the market remains largely community-controlled, with about 19 leadership transitions under the association system since its evolution into a major market.
"This market deals in billions of naira. It contributes heavily to government revenue through multiple taxes," Alkassam said. From loaders and cart pushers to transporters, security guards, and traders, thousands of livelihoods depend on the market daily.
"We even employ over 500 security guards ourselves. The government does not pay them," he said. Inside Kwari Market's tightly packed corridors, traders describe a system stretched by inflation, exchange rate volatility, rising customs charges, and weakening purchasing power. Yet beneath the pressure lies a quieter reality, one of constant adjustment, shrinking margins, and survival strategies that now define daily trade.
A trader, Muhammadu Auwalu, who sells Atampa fabrics imported from Cotonou, said rising costs have significantly reduced profit margins. "What I used to buy for one million naira is now over two million," he said.
He noted that despite importing higher-quality fabrics from Cotonou rather than China, low patronage has made profit-making difficult. Some sales now recover only capital, with no real gain. To stay afloat, he breaks bulk goods into smaller pieces, allowing customers to buy what they can afford while keeping the business running.
Umar Faruk, a lace trader in Gidan Garage (Plaza), said declining sales have forced him into multiple means of survival. "Some days we don’t make any sales," he said. "After closing, I do tricycle business." He explained that lace purchases that cost ₦300,000–₦350,000 five years ago now go for ₦550,000–₦700,000.
Retail prices have also risen from about ₦17,000–₦18,000 to over ₦30,000. To cope with demand fluctuations, he now sells in smaller quantities and relies on seasonal peaks such as Ramadan and festive periods. He also employs security guards as part of his business strategy.
The market's resilience is a testament to the determination of its traders, who continue to find ways to adapt to the changing economic landscape. With the market's rich history and its significant contributions to the local economy, it is clear that Kwari Market's story is one of hope and survival in the face of adversity.
"This market deals in billions of naira. It contributes heavily to government revenue through multiple taxes," said Alkassam.
Key Facts
- Kwari Market is Africa's largest textile market.
- The market has about 275 plazas and over 13,000 shops.
- The market contributes heavily to government revenue through multiple taxes.
- Traders face rising costs, shrinking demand, inflation, exchange rate volatility, and customs charges.
- Muhammadu Auwalu sells Atampa fabrics imported from Cotonou.
- Umar Faruk is a lace trader in Gidan Garage (Plaza).
- Lace purchases now cost ₦550,000–₦700,000, up from ₦300,000–₦350,000 five years ago.